Destination: Sudan

Culture and people

Ethnographers have identified 19 core ethnic groups in Sudan, which can be sub-divided into 597 distinct tribes. There are over 400 different language dialects currently in use in the Sudan. In a country such as Sudan, with its long history of internal migration and foreign conquest, uncovering accurate data about its ethnic mix, much less explaining that data, is notoriously difficult. Listed below are details of some of the larger tribes that you might encounter whilst in the Sudan.

Arabs are the largest ethnic group in the Sudan, estimated to number some 16 million. The label 'Arab' refers to cultural rather than religious heritage. Sudanese Arabs live mainly in the northern and central parts of the country. They can be traced back to the Bedouin nomads that wondered the deserts of what is now modern-day Saudi Arabia centuries ago. However, over the centuries, many Arabs have inter-married with the African tribes of Sudan, giving them a darker skin tone and Negroid features.

The Beja were nicknamed the fuzzy wuzzies by the British because of their unique crop of short curly hair. They were crucial in supporting the campaign of the Mahdi against British colonial forces at the end of the nineteenth century. The Beja are a nomadic tribe, living mainly in the northeast of Sudan, though some are to be found in Ethiopia and Eritrea as well. Archaeological findings suggest that the tribe originated from Egypt. The Beja are Islamic, but often forego many of the muslim traditions, such as the regular recital of prayers. Beja life is centred round social gatherings, where they celebrate love and war in songs and poetry. Many tribal members play the traditional rababa, which is similar to the guitar. Spiced Sudanese Coffee (jabana) is a very important part of such gatherings.

The Rashaida are closely related to the Saudi Arabia Bedouin, who migrated to Sudan from the Arabian Peninsula about 150 years ago. Most Sudanese Rashaida live in the north-east, on the outskirts of Kassala, though a large number inhabit neighbouring Eritrea. Many members of the tribe still live a nomadic lifestyle, dwelling in rudimentary tents and earning a living from herding and breeding goats and sheep. A distinctive feature of the Rashaida tribe is the full veil that the women wear. The Rashaida are known for being fiercely independent and tend to be very wary of strangers. This makes taking photographs of them quite tricky.

The Zaghawa, also known as the Beri, are a semi-nomadic tribe found mainly on the border between Sudan and Chad, although they are to be found in Niger as well. They are traditionally camel and cattle herders. The Zaghawa dwell on ecologically fragile lands in Darfur, where water is scarce and desertification is becoming a growing problem. This has led to the migration of many Zarghawa, bringing them into contact and often conflict with other tribes. Islam was introduced to the Zaghawa tribe in the 1600s. However, some tribal beliefs persist, and many Zaghawa still wear charms and cover their babies’ face in public to ward off the evil eye. Whilst the Zaghawa are not very powerful in the Sudan, they politically dominate Chad, with many former Chadian prime ministers and members of government coming from this tribe.

The Masalit occupy a remote stretch of land that crosses the border between Sudan and Chad. They have been at the heart of the Darfur conflict for many years now, and have lost great numbers during the ethnic fighting. The Masalit are a non-Arab people, although most adhere to the Islamic religion. Like neighbouring tribes, Masalit beliefs are influence by their traditional customs, and they continue pray to gods of the land and sky as well as to Allah. The Masalit make their living mainly through growing crops and raising cattle, sheep and goats. They mostly live in village settlements composed of several smaller compounds surrounded by fences made from millet stalks. The round huts tend to have conical thatched roofs.

Nubians are a non-Arab Muslim people who once lived in the historic region of Nubia. They are now concentrated in three main cities: Kom Ombo in Southern Egypt, and Wadi Halfa and Khashm el-Girba in the Sudan. Nubians have much darker skin than their Egyptian neighbours. Once a Christian people, the Nubians succumbed to a gradual process of Islamization, starting in the fourteenth century. Today, the Nubians are virtually all Muslims, although some traditional beliefs (such as the idea that non-living objects have spirits) also influence their culture. Nubian tribes have their own languages - Kenuzi-Dongolawi and Fedidja-Mahas being the most common – but many tribal members, particularly the men, also speak Arabic.

The Dinka are the largest non-Arab ethnic group in Sudan, with numbers estimated to be well over one million. Found mostly in southern Sudan along the Nile River, the Dinka are a tall, thin and very dark-skinned race. They have been a major component of the war that has ravaged the country. The celebrated John Garang, former rebel leader, was himself a Dinka - and so is his successor. But the war has also been hard on the Dinka, too, and many families have been torn apart by the conflict. Furthermore, many Dinkas continue to suffer persecution by Islamic forces, who assume that just because someone is a Dinka they must also be a rebel. The Dinka are traditionally cattle herders. A great number still follow their traditional beliefs, though some have now adopted Christianity.

The Nuer are the second largest ethnic group in South Sudan, after the Dinka. Their entire culture and way of life has been traditionally based around cattle and livestock. Cattle are used for the payment of fines and debts, and offered as dowry payments in marriage. It is common for young children to fashion model cows out of clay or wood. Sudan’s civil war has had a devastating effect on the Nuer and their traditional way of life, perhaps more so than on any other Sudanese tribe. Many Nuer serve alongside the Dinka in the rebel armies, although the Dinka and the Nuer have a somewhat acrimonious history, and tribal fighting between the two is common. Although years of conflict has wreaked havoc on the traditional lives of the Nuer, most continue to adhere to animist beliefs, although some have reverted to Christianity and the number of Christian churches in the Nuer region is on the rise.

Kababish The Kababish are a group of nomadic people, considered to be mid-way between Arab and African. They dwell in harsh desert conditions in Northern Kordofan, on the edge of the Libyan desert, and traditionally have wandered across the desert with their camels in search of food and water. Although most Kababish consider themselves Muslim, they do not adhere to the strict Islamic rules due to their harsh desert lifestyle and limited education. The Kababish originated in Arabia, but intermarried with various North African tribes, such as the Beja and the Moors. The Kababish have darker skin than traditional Arabs do, but are not quite as dark as their southern neighbours. Because life in the desert is very dangerous, most Kababish men wear sheathed daggers on their left arms. A number of them also carry swords and sometimes even shotguns or rifles.

The Jaaliyn are believed to be ancestrally close to the Nubian people of northern Sudan, although many clan members boast that they are direct descendents of Prophet Muhammad. The Jaaliyn live along the banks of the Nile, not far from Khartoum. Many of the women, particularly the older ones, display facial scars in the form of a T or an H, which is considered a sign of great beauty. Most Jaaliyn are committed Muslims, though a few isolated groups have switched over to Christianity.

The Fur inhabit the plains and foothills of western Sudan, around the volcanic mountain Jebel Marra. It is from them that the name Darfur comes, meaning “Land of the Fur”. The Fur subscribe to Islamic beliefs, although they are not Arabic and maintain some tribal rituals. Given their location in the country, it is not surprising that the Fur have become heavily embroiled in the fighting that has ravaged Darfur. In particular, the growing shortage of water and grazing land has resulted in direct clashes with the nomadic Baggara. A great number of Fur have reportedly fled to Chad and elsewhere in search of safety.

The Nuba people live in the foothills of the Nuba Mountains, just south of El Obeid in Kordofan. They have had a tumultuous history, and have been wracked by fighting as the conflict in the south has spilled over into the region. The majority of the Nuba people are Muslims – although some that live to the South maintain their traditional animist beliefs, or else have adopted Christianity. In many of the southern regions, ritual specialists and priests still hold much influence in the clans, for it is they who are thought to work the magic that is essential for controlling the rain, keeping the peace and ensuring growth of crops. Inhabiting such fertile land, the Nuba have traditionally been farmers and herders of livestock. They are also well known for their love of competitive events, particularly traditional wrestling.

The Baggara are nomadic cattle herders (baggara actually means cow in Arabic) who live on the western edge of Sudan and in eastern Chad. Their origins can be traced back to the Bedouin Arabs of Saudi Arabia. Their dark skin comes from their inter-marriage with the native Africans of the Sudan region. The Baggara are known for being hardened fighters, though many other tribes often perceive them as uncouth barbarians. Very much on the front line of Sudan's civil war, the Baggara have been much condemned for their part in raiding Southern civilian villages. However, because of a lack of education, few Baggara are involved in the political arena in the same way that, for example, the Dinka are. Tribe members typically follow Islam, though their faith is tinged with traditional beliefs. For example, they believe strongly in the evil eye, and are anxious of protecting their cattle from jealous onlookers. They also place a large amount of faith in witch doctors.

The Shilluk are primarily a farming community, who live on the west bank of the Nile just south of Kosti. They also fish and keep some livestock (mainly cattle, goats and sheep). The Shilluk land has recently become an important producer of gum Arabic. Traditionally, the Shilluk recognised the existence of a supreme being, which they call jwok ayimo, although they also believe that ancestral spirits can be called upon in times of hardship. The Shilluk believe that the ghost of somebody killed or murdered haunts the perpetrator. The location of the Shilluk kingdom on the banks of the Nile has made the tribe susceptible to outside influence, and much of the old belief system has now given way to Islam (in the north) or Christianity (in the south). The war has also displaced many Shilluk to north Sudan - and further a field, to the United States, Britain and Canada.