Destination: Sudan

What to see

Whilst Sudan's tourist industry is still very much in its infancy, the country holds many hidden treasures that are worth discovering.

Khartoum, the nation's capital, is split into three separate units: Omdurman, central Khartoum and Bahri.

It is in Omdurman that you will find many of the country's historical sites - such as the Mahdi's tomb, the Khalifa's house and the remnants of the Mahdi fortifications. You can also visit the traditional boatbuilders along the bank of the Nile or take a wander around the local fish market and eat Nile fish at one of the restaurants there. Every Friday before sunset, the Whirling Dervishes (the local Sufi sect) perform an elaborate religious ceremony at the tomb of Hamed al-Nil.

The other side of the Nile, in central Khartoum, you can stroll down the banks of the Nile past the old colonial-style mansions, visit the national or ethnographic museum or simply relax on a boat tour. Tuti Island, a two-minute boat ride into the centre of the Nile, is a great place to explore. You might also think about taking in a football match at the local stadium or going to the horse races (betting officially prohibited). There are a number of cinemas in the city (mainly showing films in Arabic), plus several international clubs, which often organise sporting events and other activities in the evenings.

Apart from being an interesting place to stroll around, Bahri holds few immediate tourist attractions. The central market in Bahri is famous for its clothes, and it is fascinating to simply come to watch the tailors at work. Every Friday evening, just before sunset, the local Nuba community put on a traditional Nuba wrestling show. Traditionally practiced to prove the manhood of the local men, the wrestlers - and the spectators - take things very seriously!

North of Khartoum stretches the Sahara desert - a great place to explore for a day or a weekend, particularly if you have your own transport. Here you will find the ancient Nubian pyramids and temples of Merowe and Dongola, or you can simply decide to relax by the picturesque Sixth Cataract.

Heading east, you can explore the sugarloaf mountains of Kassala on the Eritrean border, or journey up to Port Sudan and try your hand at Scuba diving or snorkelling. Other watersports are available on the coast of the Red Sea, depending on whether there is enough demand for them. The old seaport of Suakin, which was first built as a departure point for Muslim pilgrims bound for Mecca, is a short half-hour bus ride from Port Sudan.

Westward takes you to Kordofan, famous for growing gum Arabic, and to the breathtaking Nuba mountains. The land eventually opens out into the inhospitable plains of Darfur, which is still a very unstable region - it is best to check travel advice with your local embassy before venturing into this area. It is in Darfur that you will find the extinct volcano Jebel Marra, the highest point in the whole of Sudan that. In more peaceful times, the region around Jebel Marra offered some of the best trekking in the country.

Or you might decide to explore the fascinating tribal regions of the South - with Malakal and Juba being the most popular hotspots. If you have some wits about you, you can even try and blag a trip down south on one of the many river boats that travel that way. But, be warned, the journey is likely to be pretty uncomfortable and takes a long time because you are travelling against the flow of the river. The boats are mainly used to transport returning refugees and not really used for tourists.

Details of all these attractions, plus more besides, can be found in The City Trail Guide to Sudan.